Climbing

alpinismo

The Pietra di Bismantova can be considered the most interesting and diverse climbing rock in Emilia Romagna. On this sandstone rock one can regularly find climbers of every generation. The Pietra di Bismantova offers various sport climbing sectors, and bouldering areas, as well as numerous multiplicity climbs of all levels.

Moreover, there is a Via Ferrata, which allows expert hikers with proper equipment, to reach the summit seeing amazing views on the way.
The first ascent is attributed to Carlo Voltolini, who made a solo climbing of the Pietra di Bismantova in 1922. The route of his ascent, reaching the third grade, became known as “via degli Svizzeri”. In 1940 Nino Oppio climbed the south-east face, opening the “Via Oppio”, which was named after him. That same year, Armando Corradini and Olinto Pincelli climbed the dihedral from the square of the Hermitage, whose degree of difficult was the sixth grade.

A new phase began in 1960: the first “aid” climb on the Pietra was made in 1960 by Luigi Zuffa and Benito Modoni. In the meantime, more people were taking up mountaineering in Emilia Romagna and the Pietra became one of the most popular rock climbing venues in the region.
In mid-1980 there were new developments in climbing as a sport. Several technical innovations were introduced, such as bolts and single pitches. New routes were opened and the old ones were robolted.
It should be noted that on some routes, the Pietra is a difficult terrain which must be tackled with the right skills, respect and education which you need for any mountain.

(adapted from text by Pietro Barigazzi , Ginetto Montipò)